Routes below HVS on Unwanted Rocks, Charnel Skyline

by Steve Clark, Lynn Robinson and Chris Tan

This list is intended as a supplement to the 1988 BMC Moorland Gritstone Chew Valley guidebook. The crag was not listed in any previous guides but is in the Chew Valley. The BMC guidebook team is currently in the final stages of producing an updated Moorland Gritstone guide. As far as we know, this will be due out in 2012.

The earliest electronic record that we have of climbing in this area was kept by Craig Hannah. Where appropriate his original notes are included in Italics.

Situation and Character

Grid Reference: SE02720380 - 02740365

Unwanted Rocks sits high on the SW facing moorland edge, almost directly above The Charnel Stones. What it lacks in height, it makes up for in quality, giving beefy technical tests, often steep and juggy for the grade, in a similar manner to the edge at Pule Hill. Most of the routes are in the lower grades and the average quality is fairly high but the well weathered features, the odd bit of slightly suspect rock and steep terrain mean it's not an ideal venue for the inexperienced. Exposed and quick drying it is well worth the effort on a good day outside the winter months, quite sheltered from cold NE winds.

Approach

The easiest approach is via The Duck Stones (directly up from the Dovestones Reservoir). This is an obvious duck-shaped buttress visible on the skyline from the bridges at Chew Brook. From the Duck Stones, turn right ( south-ish) and walk along the edge for a few hundred metres, keeping an eye out for the prominent 2m overhang of The Nose.

For a more entertaining approach, follow the road up to Chew Reservior until you get to a gate. Turn left and scramble up Charnel Clough ( avoidable Mod) until you get to the top of the moor. Unwanted Rocks, Buttresses A & B lie about 200m left ( north-ish).

Unwanted Rocks

Quick Index

1. Unwanted Nose A
2. Unwanted Nose B
3. Unwanted Nose C
4. Unwanted Nose D
5. Unwanted Nose E
6. Unwanted Rocks, Buttress B
7. Unwanted Rocks, Buttress A
8. Download this guide as a PDF

The first buttresses are based around the prominent nose. Starting with the main 'Nose Buttress':

Unwanted Nose A

• 6 ft left of an obvious arete is a undercut block. Various starts lead to the pleasant slab above. D 2c - 4b
• The obvious arete 10 ft left of the nose. A steep start leads to pleasant climbing on the arete. Not too well protected, D - Chris Tan, 13 Aug 06 ( bold but pleasant a possible D 2c * - SC)
  Which Side of the Hill, Diff, 30 ft. Climb the arete left of the gully. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• A variation to the previous route starts at the same place. After the steep start, step right and finish up the wall. VD - Chris Tan
• The left wall and right flake arete forms a moderate gully. M
• The flake arete formed by the left of the chimney is an exposed and rather reachy boulder problem V0- 4c (or VS 4c)  - SC
• The chimney left of the nose, M ? Phil West, 13 Aug 06 ( a fun M 2c - SC)
  Time Capsule, Diff, 25ft. Ascend the cleft in the right wall of the gully, can be climbed inside or out. C Hannah – solo 13.03.00
• The wall just right of the chimney VS 5a; a tricky climb with a reachy finish flawed by the possible chimney escape. - SC
• The steep wall to the hanging cracks right gives a superb climb, VS 4c **
                   
  The Venessa Hole, VS 4b***, 30ft. Move right from the gully into the crack system, which is followed to the top on good holds and excellent protection. J Lilleman, C Hannah & Simon Holmes all led. 13.03.00
• The traverse out to the lip of the nose is obvious and probably in the low extreme grades.
  Cunning Stunts, E3 6a*, 35ft. Climb the left arete of the main buttress on the left hand side to finish on huge jugs. J Lilleman led - C Hannah 2nd. 13.03.00
• The nose direct would be a major undertaking, high in the extreme grades.
• The right sidewall of the nose looks technical ( low extreme?)
  Blood, Sweat and Beers, E4/5 6a?*, 35ft. Climb the right side of the front face of the buttress until you are under the roof; arrange protection under the roof. Gain a large hold over the roof from a good pocket; finish up the wall above by thin moves. C Hannah led - P Davis 2nd. 03.09.00

Immediately right is a squat block with some good boulder problems:

• U4 3b an easy mantle problem on the lump on the left wall.
• U6 4a The left arete at the undercut front.
• V0 5b The same problem from a sit start
• U6 4a Pulling on from the right of the front of the block.
• A couple of more thin technical problems are immediately right.
• The awkward corner in the small bay leads to a pleasant rib. D 3b
  The Changing, Mod, 20ft. The cracked wall in the bay to the right. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• A large block forms the right hand wall of the small bay. Mantle the front of this block and finish up the pleasant slab above. D 3b

Easy problems follow to the next substantial buttress, 15m right

Unwanted Nose B

• Climb the corner crack on the left face, D - Liz Asquith, 13 Aug 06 ( a good little test possible HD 3b - SC)
  Better or Worse, Diff, 20ft. Climb the left hand corner crack. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• Climb the arete just right. Nice climbing but no gear! VS 4a - Chris Tan, 13 Aug 06 ( a hard start on the right and move left to a delicate finish up the front, possible HS 4a - SC)
  The Wakening, Severe *, 20ft. The square front face of the buttress is climbed direct. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• The face right of the arete gives bold climbing on rounded holds to a juggy finish; possible HVD 3c - SC
  Hunger Unsatisfied, HS 4b, 20ft. Ascend the wall to the right of the previous route. C Hannah – solo 13.03.00
• Right again is a short joggled crack climb this and steep wall above on good holds, D - Phil West, 13 Aug 06, ( possible HD 3b - SC)
  Instinct, V Diff, 20ft. The wall 2 meters right of the previous route is climbed direct. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00

The next climbs are on the front face of the buttress to the right:

Unwanted Nose C

• The right side of the left arete takes some thought, HVD 3c - SC
  Nailed, V Diff, 20ft. Climb the next arete 10 meters right of Instinct, across a gully.
• Climb the hand sized crack, D - Liz Asquith, 13 Aug 06 ( possible D 3a - SC)
  Agoo, Diff, 18ft. Climb the wall and crack right of the previous route. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• Climb the off width crack, VD - Chris Tan, 13 Aug 06 ( possible VD 3c - SC)
  Tongue and Groove, HVD, 20ft. The off-width crack direct. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• Face just right?
  Proton Problems, Diff, 18ft. The wall to the left. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00

On the buttress immediately right again:

Unwanted Nose D

• The steep face left of the thin crack is a reachy V0 5a problem - SC
  Wellies, Diff, 20ft. Climb the arete with the crack on the right hand side. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• Climb the steep finger crack to a platform, finish up the arete S 4a - Chris Tan, 13 Aug 06 ( possible HVD 4a - SC)

The next few routes start on a lower tier.

• There are some harder boulder problems to the left of the next route.
• Layback the front crack to a platform, climb the steep face or turn it on the right. Take a deep breath and make the step of faith across the void, VD ** - Liz Asquith, 13 Aug 06 ( possible VD 3b * - SC)
                   

The next routes lie on a tier below the previous routes.
17 So near Yet Hard Severe 4b 20ft The right arete and wall of a small bay is climbed to a round finish. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
18 All Chewed Up Diff 30ft Climb the next crack and continue up the above arete. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
Back up on the upper tier.
19 Spot the Difference Diff 20ft The last arete on the upper tier is climbed direct. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00

The last buttress in this area lies 30m right. It has a band of suspect flakes in its middle:

Unwanted Nose E

• 20 Single Minded, Severe, 25ft. The centre of the buttress is climbed passing a scoop at half height. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00

40m to the right are the last two buttresses, Unwanted Rocks Buttress A & B, both about 5m high and separated by two short chimneys ( they are Moderate and Easy respectively). From the Nose area, Unwanted Rocks Buttress A & B are best approached by walking along the top. A rightwards traverse at the same level as the Nose are will take you across steep grass and dangerously close to the top of Charnel Stones.

Unwanted Rocks, Buttress B

Buttress B has a chimney and crack system splitting the buttress. Care should be taken with loose debris and flakes on the top ( helpful solid belays well back).

• On the extreme left of Buttress B, a hand-sized crack splits the buttress. Climb this, taking care with the loose blocks at mid-height, D - Chris Tan, 05 Aug 06 ( possible VD 3c - SC)
  Pancake Wall, Severe, 20ft. Climb the left wall of the first buttress. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• Climb the steep scoop to small overhang, just left of a rock scar. Turn the overhang on the left using big holds and continue towards the top. Steep! S - Chris Tan, 13 Aug 06 ( possible HS 4b - SC)
• Overhang direct ? Not done! ( VS or HVS?)
  Mr Flakey Met the Vulture, E2 5b*, 25ft. The overhanging wall is climbed past a rock scar on round holds. Gear is good but hard to place. C Hannah - led, P Davis 2nd. 25.03.00
• Climb the steep left hand crack, HS - Phil West, 13 Aug 06 ( a delightful steep climb, possible HS 4b * - SC)
       
  Just For the Crack, Severe, 20ft. Right of route No.22 is a crack, climb this direct. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• Climb the right hand chimney, D - Chris Tan, 13 Aug 06 ( steep work with a tricky exit, possible VD 3c - SC)
  The Blitz, V Diff, 20ft. Climb the crack right of the previous route. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• Climb the steep face right of the chimney, VD - Chris Tan, 05 Aug 06 ( steep jugging to a precarious exit, possible S 3c or HVD 3c with side-runners in the crack - SC)
• Just right is a chimney with a straight crack in the back. Climb the chimney, M
  Just in Case, 20ft, Diff Climb the 3rd and final crack on this buttress. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• Right again is another chimney which can be used as a descent, E

Unwanted Rocks, Buttress A is immediately right of the chimneys:

Unwanted Rocks, Buttress A

• 26 Moonlight, V Diff, 20ft. The centre of the 1st buttress C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• Start left of the hanging V chimney, below a small overhanging nose. Climb this on jugs, which leads to an exciting and committing finish, S 4a * - Chris Tan, 05 Aug 06 ( greasy and top end for the grade - SC)
• Climb the rightwards slanting crack to a hanging V-chimney, finish awkwardly up this, VD * - Chris Tan, 05 Aug 06 ( possible VD 3c - SC)
  Sunlight, Diff, 20ft. Climb the obvious wide crack. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• Take the overhang direct ? Not done! ( rather squeezed in and probably about VS/HVS)
• Climb to under the small overhang and exit right, D - Chris Tan, 05 Aug 06 ( possible D 3a - SC)
  Goodtimes, Diff, 20ft. Ascend the next crack. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00
• Climb the steep and reachy scoop on the right edge of the buttress, D - Chris Tan, 05 Aug 06 ( possible VD 3c - SC)
  Boogie, Diff, 20ft. The arete and wall is climbed on the left. C Hannah - solo 13.03.00

What else is there?

The Chew Roof area, another 700m south, offers bold, slabby and more technical climbing. A further 200m from there will lead you to the far left of Rob's Rocks, SE030018, where more quality routes can be found. To the north lie the aforementioned Duck Stones, SE026030, host to 15 or so routes. And directly below Unwanted Rocks are the Charnel Stones, SE027027, about 20 plus routes.

Duck Stones, Charnel Stones and Rob's Rocks are described in BMC Moorland Gritstone Chew Valley, 1988, ISBN 0 903908 51 4.

Conservation

Unlike the more popular Peak venues, these rocks are in pristine condition. A little care and consideration will keep them that way for future climbers to enjoy.

• Please treat suspect flakes with care and respect. They have taken millions of years to form.
• Ditto! The pebbles on the harder problems.
• Bring a carrier bag and take any rubbish home, even if it is not yours.
• The very coarse texture of the grit will provide excellent handling and friction. Please keep chalk use to a minimum. And there should be no need to brush!

Final Notes

It is very unlikely that these little buttresses escaped the attention of the local cragsmen. It would therefore be more appropriate to describe Unwanted Rocks as a “rediscovery”. They are so named as they seem to be completely left out of the 1988 Moorland Gritstone guide. We have not documented everything that is in the area, deliberately leaving gaps for the discerning climber to enjoy rediscovering for themselves.

The earliest electronic record that we have of climbing in this area was kept by Craig Hannah. His original script can be downloaded here.

Acknowledgements

Many thanks to everybody who helped and contributed to this project; especially Liz Asquith, Craig Hannah, Teresa Raventos, Mike Rignall and Phil West.

Special thanks to Steve Clark and Lynn Robinson who checked and refined the scripts and were willing to drive 200 miles to a "New Grit Discovery", first thing in the morning, on April 1st!

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