Rock climbing on Moorland Gritstone, Derbyshire, UK

Rock climbing on Moorland Grit, Derbyshire, UK

by Chris Tan

Introduction

Situated roughly between the northern English cities of Leeds, Sheffield and Manchester, the high-level Moorland Gritstone crags of the Peak District offer a wealth of climbing experiences that rival those of the more popular areas near Sheffield. These crags are scattered high, around the Kinder plateau, the Bleaklow complex and the Longendale valley and in the Chew valley in the north. Some of the longest and hardest gritstone routes can be found in the Moorland Grit areas, where leader-placed protection is the norm.

Gritstone or just "Grit" as it is called locally, is a sandstone and feldspar conglomerate, similar to Czech sandstone, that weathers well, leaving a tough hard outer layer. However, unlike the softer variant found in the Czech Republic, Gritstone is hard and mechanically sound, accepting modern protection like nuts and cams. Its very rough texture offers unsurpassed frictional qualities. Natural weathering, geological processes and human quarrying have created a myriad of shapes and textures that make climbing on Gritstone such a pleasure. Remote naturally eroded crags, cliffs formed by landslips, blank disused quarries, BIG gritstone quarries, bouldering, both roadside and remote and lots more can be found in the Moorland Gritstone areas.

There are two guide books, with over 700 pages of text, photos and drawings that describe more than a 1000 routes! And the British Mountaineering Council are in the process of preparing a new edition.

This short photo essay hopes to capture the essence of climbing on Moorland Grit.

Yellowslacks ( OS ref SK075957)

This crag is situated high on the southern flanks of the Bleaklow complex, near the High Peak town of Glossop. Despite a local farmer's application of dynamite! The crag's compact nature still gives short impressive lines in a beautiful remote setting.

Dave Simmonite attempts a new route in misty conditions

Ben Tetler on his new E3 - Technical, Pumpy and Bold!

Big Chris protects Grey Wall, HVS 5a

Andi Turner clips some small cams, then eyeballs the crux!

Mark Sharraf makes some technical moves

Ravenstones ( OS ref SE038048 to SES033048)

This is one of the gems in the Chew Valley for the mid-grade climber, with over 100 routes, mostly below E1 to choose from. And if climbing in this beautiful remote crag is not enough, you can try exploring the tunnel that goes though the hill, to emerge about a mile later near Dovestones Edge.

Chew's best mid-grade crag - Ravenstones

Martin Kocis fights Undun Crack, VS 4c

The author leads Grooved Wall, HS

Dave Simmonite seconds Trinnacle West, E1 5b on The Trinnacle

Other Moorland Gritstone crags

Kinder Downfall, Kinder Scout ( OS ref. SK068898 to SK082888)

Climbers on Pocket Wall, VS 4b on The Great Buttress

Ashop Edge, Kinder Scout ( OS ref. SK096898 to SK077898)

Polish visitors pitching Jester Cracks, VS 4c - Locals use a different approach!

Bareholme Crag, North Longendale ( OS ref. SE062010)

Duncan Irving leads Shy Ann Arete, HVS 5a, with historical Laddow Rocks in the background!

Running Hill Pits, Chew Valley ( OS ref. SE018075)

Fantastic jamming on laser straight cracks - Plumb Line VS 4c

And fierce, fingery bouldering

Upper Tor, Kinder Scout ( OS ref. SK114876)

Restrictive squirms and open spaces

Standing Stones, Chew Valley ( OS ref. SE039053)

Or the grip on a big grit lead - Shaun Walby leads Womanless Wall, VS 4b

You'll find it all on Moorland Grit!

Guide books, maps and airports

Moorland Gritstone - Kinder and Bleaklow, Peak Rock Climbs - 5th Series, 1990, IBSN 0 903908 76 X
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley, Peak Rock Climbs - 4th Series, 1988, IBSN 0 903908 51 4
Ordnance Survey 1:25000 Outdoor Leisure Map 1, The Peak District - Dark Peak
The new guide book Over The Moors covering Kinder, Bleaklow and Chew areas can be pre-ordered from the BMC. Due out in May 2012!

There are many budget airlines that fly to:

Manchester - Manchester International Airport, airport code MAN.
Leeds - Leeds-Bradford International Airport, airport code LBA.
Sheffield - Robin Hood Airport, airport code DSA.

Miscellaneous Information

The "P" prefixed pictures were taken using an Olympus Mju 300 compact digital. They are all less than 2 mbytes. The "DSCF" prefixed pictures were taken using a Fuji FinePix S7000 digital camera @ ISO ASA 200.
Presented using Slide Show Ver 4.4, Author: Chris Tan

Note: Usual copyright & disclaimers apply. If you would like to use the information or any of the pictures contained in these pages, contact Chris Tan by first removing the Walnut.

Last Updated: 15 April 2012