The Theory - READ ME FIRST!

Belay devices that have a guide mode have been on the market for several years now. Two well-reviewed devices are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso series. This enhancement will let you use the device as a leader belay, bring up two seconds simultaneously, abseiling as well as a rope grab for hauling and ascending a rope/ropes. As these are very useful features to have in one single lightweight device! I wanted to see if I could make one or at least adapt something accordingly.

In essence, all the Guide Mode enhancement is is a strong attachment point, separate from the friction slots of the belay device. This will allow you to attach the belay device directly to an anchor system. The live rope runs through the slots, on top of the dead end, round a carabiner back-bar, forming a kink. When the live rope is loaded, the kink will constrict and jam the dead end.

Disclaimer: This is a low use improvised device and can in NO WAY replace a dedicated Guide Plate. The material I have chosen to form the Guide Loop attachment point is 5.5mm Spectra cord. This has a single strand breaking strain of 14 Kn, so doubled up in a loop, less 50% doo-da factor will give a working strength of 14 Kn - Strong enough for most applications. However, Spectra cord has a very low melting point. It is strongly recommended that the rig be carefully inspected after each deployment.

Note: Click on the pictures for an enlargement ( 500kb)

Fig. 1

Assembling your guide-Stitch Plate

1. You will need:

1. An old unsprung Stitch Plate
2. 1m of 5.5mm Spectra cord for the Guide Loop
3. A short length of 4-5mm cord for a keeper

2. Thread the 5.5mm Spectra cord through the keeper hole on the Stitch Plate and make the Guide Loop using a Triple Fisherman's knot. You must use a Triple Fisherman's as the usual Double Fisherman's will not hold on Spectra cord.

3. Finish up by using the other length of cord to make a keeper - Fig. 2. This will stop the plate from sliding up the rope when it is used in its more conventional mode - a belay device.

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Figs. 3 and 4 show how the enhanced Stitch Plate is used. The keeper cord has been removed for clarity. The top of the page are the anchors and belayer, while the bottom is the second.

4. Fig. 3 shows the set up for normal belaying, unchanged from usual practice, dead end locked off.

5. Fig. 4 shows the set up for Guide Mode belaying. Only a single second set up is shown for clarity. The live end must be closest to the Guide Loop, ie On top of the dead end.

6. Rigs for ascending and hauling are based on the Fig. 4 configuration and they are not shown. Simply search for "Ascending a rope with a Reverso 3".

Fig. 4