The Moorland Gritstone guide book team's
itinerary
Over the Moors is here! Order one today.
Updated 15th May 2012
Our mission is to:
- Check and review *All* the routes in the existing guide book and new routes log.
- Clean existing lines if necessary.
- Add new lines.
- Take lots of stunning photos.
- And of course! Eat cake and have a fun day out!
Weather permitting, we will be out each weekend and some weekdays, climbing, checking, cleaning and just doing what guide book workers do, from
about 10 to pub o'clock, unless specified otherwise.
The team consists of climbers of all abilities from novices to cutting edge climbers.
If you like to help, even if it's for a day or a few hours, you'll be more than welcome.
You will get taken to places you've never heard of and guided by the local experts to the hidden gems,
watch top climbers in action and pick up a few tricks, find out where the best pubs, cafes and bakeries are,
and of course, eat loads and loads of cake.
You will need a sense of fun and adventure, wear bright clothes ( black, white or
shades of green/khaki don't photograph well) and of course, be able to carry
cake with you.
ps We are also looking for high quality pictures that capture the essence of climbing on the high Moorland crags,
as well as proof readers for the finished scripts. You can offer your help here.
And now, a word from our glorious leader...
"Dear all,
We are now getting into the "hard work" phase of the guidebook, and we have to be quite strict. As of now, we are not accepting any further new routes...this sounds a bit mean, but as we have several scripts (e.g. Standing Stones) in final book form, adding new ones at this stage will create big problems for us in terms of layout and topos.
We might still accept the odd major new line (Kevin), like the wall at Red Brook, or the roof at Shooters, but what we class as "minor" routes and variations are right out!
Obviously, bribes will be accepted.
Love from,
Martin"
Reliable sources report, the first draft of the guide "Over The Moors" is now being assembled.
NOW click this space!
Highlights from 2012:
Over The Moors was sent to the printers in April and first batch has arrived on our shores! Hurrah!!!
You can
order your copy from the
BMC today.
The dancing will be done and brilliant weather for the next few months is expected. Order one today and don't miss out... You know it makes sense!
And to whet your appetite, here's a selection of "Photo Out takes".
Highlights from 2010:
- Work and development of Crags XX and xXx continue.
- Scripts and route checking all done! Hurrah! Now over to Niall.
- Loose ends being tidied up and the LGPs ( Last Great Problems) are falling like nine-pins!
Highlights from 2009:
- Work and development of Crags XX and xXx continue.
- Access breakthrough
to Shooter's Nab - Follow the links to 2010's access arrangements
and
dates
.
- The last great problem ( until another one is found) at Wimberry was taken by Miles Gibson at E9 7a! It's the direct start to Sick Bay Shuffle.
- Lots of high grade, high quality new routes in exciting venues.
- The Greenwood Bakery in Greenfield is still the de-facto base-camp but it is facing very stiff competition from the New Bank Garden Centre in Uppermill.
- The re-emegence of the
Chew Valley Cragsmen ( and women and children and pets), the traditional
" Keepers of the Valley ". We meet regularly to discuss all things Chew and have a
Facebook group - The Chew Valley Cragsmen.
Highlights from 2008:
- The discovery of Crags XX and xXx - Developments continue.
- Major clean up of Shooter's Nab - Watch this space for 2009's access arrangements.
- The recruitment of a film producer to the team - Yes! There may be a short video of our activities.
- Lots of high grade, high quality new routes in exciting venues.
- Establishment of the Greenwood Bakery in Greenfield as the de-facto base-camp. They do make exceedingly good cake and pies.
Forthcoming activities:
Updated: 0715, 03rd July 2011
OMG! July already but at least it kicks off with a dry spell. Finger, toes and
eyes are crossed!
- Sunday, July 3rd - We are at Ravenstones - arguably the best mid-grade crag in the Chew.
It will be in condition as it's been dry for days. We'll be there from 11-ish onwards.
- Sunday, June 19th - The Karabiner Mountaineering Club are holding a "Newcomers Welcome Meet" at Dovestones Edge.
Click here for details and the latest updates.
- Tuesday, June 14th - I'll be at Running Hill Pits from midday onwards.
- Tuesday, June 14th - The Tuesday Nighters will be at Standing Stones in the evening.
- Wednesday, June 01st - Huddersfield University Climbing Club will be at Running Hill Pits this evening.
- Most days in the week - Now free to climb, contact Chris.
Note:
Best contact us first if you are planning on joining us
at a designated location - click for the Crag List. We are at the mercy of the fickle weather :-( and may
have to move around and adapt to changing conditions.
Events and Reports:
Autumn-Winter 2010
- Saturday, November 06th - Weather permitting, route checking for the YMC in preparation for the forthcoming Yorkshire Grit guide.
We will be at Woodhouse Scar, Halifax from midday onwards.
- Saturday, 4th September - The Best Climber in Uppermill
will be presenting an audio visual show of his adventures, from Borneo to Marsden and everywhere in between!
- Tuesday, September, 7th - We're at Pule Hill over in Marsden.
- Thursday, September, 9th - Thursday Climbing Club! Looks like it's Froggatt
this Thursday. We should be there from about midday if anyone wants to join us.
Contact Ann S.
- Tuesday, September, 14th - The weather is not playing ball and the nights are drawing in.
This Tuesday's venue is Den Lane, very easy access Trad-Sport ;-)
- Tuesday, September, 21st - The nights are drawing in, so
this Tuesday's venue is Den Lane, very easy access Trad-Sport ;-)
August 2010
- Tuesday, 24th August - Wimberry Boulders! We'll be somewhere on the circuit shouting things like;
"send it Dude!", "Awesome!"...
- Sunday, 15th August - Chris-No-Mates will be bouldering at Duckstones North ( between The Duckstone and Bramley's Cot) from 1200 onwards.
- Tuesday, 10th August - At a more sedate pace, the Chew Valley Cragsmen will be at Duckstones and/or Charnel Stones.
There's some very good bouldering to be had up there... away from the crowds.
- Sunday, 08th August - A whirlwind tour of various places to try to grab those elusive action shots.
Here's how is goes...
A quick trip up to Wilderness to get some action shots, followed by a canter round the head of the valley to Rob’s Rocks, Duckstones and Charnel Stones for more shots if the weather’s up to it.
After that, off to the Marsden Area for action shots at Nab End and Pule Hill (natural edge) then cake at Crumbles in Marsden. The day will end at Whimberry boulders, then The Clarence in Greenfield for a few beers and a massive punch up. Free cake at Crumbles!
Meet at Dovestones car park for 1000hrs Sunday... or catch up with us along the way. My phone number is 07950 88 96 70.
Don't forget your brightly coloured shirts or you will be made to use mine!
- Thursday, 05th August - Running Hill Pits again! This time with the Thursday Climbing Club.
We will be there from midday. I have a mission to clean up the Back routes in the Back ( 4th) Quarry.
Quality Day - We cleaned 3 routes, did some climbing and learnt how to use a guide belay device as an ascender...
inspite of the rain!
- Tuesday, 02nd August - Time for the Pits! We'll be at Running Hill Pits, above Uppermill/Diggle.
July 2010
- Saturday, 30th July - Executive decision!
Best take advantage of the good weather and get some of these north facing crags sorted.
I'll be heading up to Ravenstones tomorrow to excavate some **** classic
esoterica! If anyone wants to climb as well, that'll be a bonus.
ttfn, chris
- Tuesday, 27th July - A repeat of last week's venues as we were washed away by the weather.
Hopefully this week will be better!
So it's Pots and Pans quarries, just above Uppermill for tomorrow.
Parking is limited so please car-share if you can. A slabby wall in the back
quarry with 6-7 micro-routes has been cleaned in 2009.
- Thursday, 29th July - Ravenstones, The reRe-Match! From 1500 onwards. Mike cycled up from Binn Green last week and it took him less than 20 minutes.
5 minutes to get back, most of it spent negotiating the stiles.
- Tuesday, 20th July - Pots and Pans quarries, just above Uppermill.
- Thursday, 22nd July - Ravenstones, The Re-Match!
- Saturday, 24th July - Shooters Nab! We are now in the final stages of finishing off the guide book.
Shooters Nab, near Marsden is one of the very few crags that need bit more work and route checking done.
Access details can be found on the
BMC Access Database.
We should be there from 1030. This is going to be a clean and climb day, so bring some brushes.
You can park at the Shooting Clubhouse but space is very limited and as we do want to keep on the sweet side of the club,
please car share if possible.
You can also park at the bend, 200 yards from the clubhouse, just before the little bridge
Refreshments in the Riverside Brewery Tap later!
- Thursday, 15th July - We're at Alderman Rocks near Dovestones Reservior, from 1800 onwards.
- Tuesday, 13th July - Back to Ravenstones for the Director's Cut! You can also check out the
Facebook group - The Chew Valley Cragsmen for updates, news and events.
- Thursday, 8th July - A special Thursday meet at Upperwood Quarry, for some of the best crack and face climbing in the Chew.
- Tuesday, 6th July - Dovestones Edge! With loads of fun low stress routes to have a go at; Answer Crack, Nasal Buttress, Silly Arete...
June 2010
- Tuesday, 29th June - Ravenstones! IMO the best low/mid-grade crag in the Chew Valley.
An alternative approach ( more pleasant) is to walk along the causeway between Dove Stone and Yeomen Hey reserviors,
then follow a faint path up to Ashway Rocks. From there, the top path contours North then East.
- Tuesday, 22nd June - Whimberry Rocks! It certainly does. This is arguably the best crag in the Chew Valley.
- Tuesday, 14th June - Upperwood Quarry, with some of the best crack climbing in the Chew.
Don't forget to ring Mr. Crowther (01457 872094) to ask permission first and park carefully away from the farm exit as
he uses the layby to turn his equipment.
- Tuesday, 01st June - It's mighty Whimberry's turn this Tuesday! Arguably the most awesome crag in the Chew.
All appointments with both Fear and Death can be booked by email.
May 2010
- Tuesday, 4th May - Standing Stones.
Don't forget to ring Mr. Crowther (01457 872094) and ask about his preferred parking and access arrangement.
- Wednesday, 12th May - Robinsons Rocks. Note the day change. This time the meet is on a Wednesday instead.
- Saturday, 15th May - It's "Clean n Climb" day @ Crowdon Great Quarry.
New stakes will be placed so that you can abseil down and hack away in relative safety!
Meet in the
Crowdon Car Park, Longendale at 1030. A full debriefing will held in The Crown @ £1.32
a pint, where the effects of the day will be inspected. Best wear your most
robust knickers!
- Sunday, 16th May - We'll be following the sun, if it deems to appear!
From mid-morning to early afternoon, we'll be at Yellowslacks.
From late afternoon onwards, the team will move to the Shelf Benches.
The aim of the day is to take action photos of the climbing and of course eat cake and have loads of fun!
Meet at the end of Shepley Street, Old Glossop, 0930 - 1000 or up at the crag.
- Tuesday, 18th May - Back to Tuesdays again, this time we'll be at Dovestones Edge.
In the event of inclement weather, the meet will be postponed to Wednesday 19th.
- Saturday, 22nd May - Will be the final visit to Ashop Edge for new routes, photographs and battling up ever so slightly undergraded classics.
Meet between 0900 and 0930 at the layby just down the hill (towards Sheffield) from the Snake Inn, ready for the walk up. If you prefer to go up via any other route and meet us at the crag, feel free. We will be grazing our way along the edge until late. Post crag entertainment will be in Glossop, courtesy of The Crown (£1.32 a pint) and the Happy Garden takeaway for Salt’n’Pepper chips (flipping awesome!)
- Sunday, 23rd May - We will be on Kinder South to bathe in glorious sunshine.
I am aiming for a 3 or 4 crag day, to include Fox Holes (now bone dry), Upper Tor, Nether Tor and maybe Grindsbrook Towers to solve the challenge of the 60 year
old Byne’s Crack, claimed to be HVS by its creator, suggested to be waaaaay harder by everyone else. We may alternatively climb at Fox Holes, Crowden Clough, Crowden Towers and The Pagoda, I ain’t made up me mind yet.
Meet at about 0930 at The Penny Pot Café (the old Edale Station caff) for a quick brew and whatnot, before heading off up the hill for the day.
- Tuesday, 25th May - Back to Standing Stones. Don't forget to make a courtesy call to Mr. Crowther - 01457 872094 to ask permission.
And for those who like to combine their outdoor activities, park at Binn Green and cycle up!
April 2010
- Tuesday, 6th April - Pule Hill, near Marsden.
- Tuesday, 13th April - Running Hill Pits, near Uppermill.
- Friday, 16th and Saturday, 17th April - Greenfield Real Ale Company brewery tour, Greenfield.
This will cost £12 for the tour, 2 pints and supper.
Contact Greenfield Real Ale Brewery tour for details.
- Tuesday, 20th April - Back to more serious stuff.
There's a public meeting to discuss the future of Holmfirth Edge, a popular bouldering venue.
Looks like the Holme Valley Parish Council would like to sell it off. Details can be found on
UK Climbing or on the
Parish Council's website.
The public meeting will be take place on Tuesday 20th April, 7.30 pm, Wooldale Community Centre, Robert Lane,
Wooldale. Please turn up to show your support.
Note: If you wish to speak, you will have to give your name to Mrs Sally Barber, Officer to the Charity. See the above links for more details.
- Wednesday, 21st April - Running Hill Pits, near Uppermill.
This time we will be in the lower quarries - Numbers 5 to 8.
- Saturday, 24th April - Sorry, last minute update. We will be at Standing Stones from 1130 onwards.
- Saturday, 24th April - Oldham Mountain Rescue Party Night, with three live bands at the Delph Band Club.
Every penny raised will go to Oldham Mountain Rescue.
Contact Ken Hulme, 28 Sevenacres, Delph, OL3 5HU (01457 872859) for further details.
- Tuesday, 27th April - Dovestones Quarries, Lower Left and/or Right.
- Wednesday, 28th April - The RSPB ( who have taken over management of the
Dovestones Estate) are holding a consultation evening regarding their plans for
the area. It will be held at Uppermill Town Hall, Uppermill @ 6.30 pm. Watch this space for updates.
March 2010
- Tuesday, 16th March - Den Lane Quarries, from 1500 onwards.
Bring headtorches for the retreat to the Church Inn. There's limited parking so car sharing would be a good idea.
- Saturday, 20th March - Upperwood Restoration Day with free tea and
cakes.
Report: Six keen Wombles met at the bakery on a wet and miserable morning,
proceeded onto Upperwood to get down, dirty and do the buizness!
Full report from The Bob:
Hello!
After weeks of amazing weather, the restoration took place on the worst day of the year so far. Despite that, six people crammed into the glorious Greenfield bakery to fill their faces, and then they went
to that caff up the road to put off the inevitable. When they finally got to the quarry, they got stuck in and made a big difference.
The ledges underneath Forked Tongue, Iron Road etc are all now clear, and so are some of the ledges near Tomahawk. It was pretty epic, including having to pass beneath a massive waterfall at one point, but we accomplished a lot given the conditions. Six people deserve the Bob Hope Medal of Dubious Honour: Chris Tan, Liz Asquith, Laurie Carefoot, Andy Stewart, Rick Gibbon and Martin Kocsis.
We will be back for a "Clean a route, Climb a route" day later in the spring.
Nice work, folks!
Bob
February 2010
- Saturday, 06th February - A
West Nab Fun Day is in store -
Pies, cakes, fun in the sun and finishing off with beer and chips - what more could you ask for!
Meet at the
Greenwood Bakery on Saturday morning from 1000 to 1030, where lifts will be available/shared,
then at the Cock Crowing Stone for 1100, then it's up onto the boulders for some
of the best problems this side of the Pennines.
- Tuesday, 23rd February - Another Cosy Night Inn - Well! It is that
time of year - Will be at The Cross Keys, Running Hill Gate, Uppermill. There will be food laid on but you will have to make a small contribution.
From 1930 onwards.
Report: It was a well-attended meeting with loads of pictures, pie, beer and conversation...
Did I mention Pie!
AND! I have seen a folder with completed scripts and photo-topos!
But there's still work to be done, Crag X's to clean and check and photos to be taken.
You can now follow Chew Valley activities on it's own website - www.chewcrags.co.uk
January 2010
- Saturday, 09th January - Too many mince pies? Need to blast some of the stuffing out of your system? Well here's your chance.
There's a meet in the Dovestones area this Saturday. The plan is to:
- Meet at
Greenfield Bakery on Saturday morning from 0930 for a 1000
departure.
- And depending on who turns up (i.e. any decent winter
climbers), we will either go to Dovestones Main to climb, or we will do a
walk round the Chew Valley Skyline, with a possible diversion int WIlderness
Gully if conditions look OK. The weekend is forecast to have sub zero
temperatures and no snowfall. This could be the best winter since 1963!
Latest News: Andy Stewart reports a new route in Dovestones Main Landslip (not a quarry,
apparently!) He says:
" Here's the route for posterity, and the video will be on youtube when I get
around to it.
Bingo-Master's Breakout V 6. ** The obvious v groove right of White Slab. 2
pitches. It gives steep, sustained mixed climbing on the upper pitch on rock
and grass. There are lots more lines to go in case you're interested."
- Sunday, 10th January - To be confirmed but it may involve a return to the Chew to climb at Dovestones if we walk on Saturday, or it will be a circuit of Kinder with a diversion to the Downfall, and some hidden icefall gems.
Email Martin if you are interested and we will work something out.
- Monday, 11th January - There will be an early morning climb of Mam Tor (again), weather dependent of course. Meet in the main car park on the Rushup road between 0630 and 0645 for some fun. The last couple of morning ascents have been brilliant and in perfect conditions. Blue John Rib is a classic at a nice III.
December 2009
- Sunday, 20th December - You know you want to!
Christmas Shopping - the Crowds, Dealing with the kids, parents, kids again, the
Decorations and trying to find that ferking faulty bulb!
Well! Here's a chance to get away from it all and let loose some of that pent up aggression.
On Sunday 20th, at about 0700, we will be tooling up at Mam Tor car park for a winter ascent of it's east face.
Last night, the temperature dropped to -10C so conditions should be ideal.
Join us at the car park, on route or later in
Barista in Glossop for refreshments
- Call Martin on Zero-795-Zero 88 96 7-Zero to establish an RV.
After a full set of bacon, eggs, sausages, black pudding, chips, beans and tea and cake,
we will be ( if we can get through the snow) pounding stakes into the top of
Crowdon Great Quarry.
We have the stakes and a sledge hammer but feel free to bring your own rocket-propelled version.
Also a harness and some rope may be useful to prevent anyone from disappearing through a cornice.
Toodle pips! chris
September 2009
- Thursday, 24th September - The splinter group, PbP ( Powered bi Pi) will be meeting at the
Greenwood Bakery on Kinder Lane, Greenfield at 1000 for pie and cakes, then climbing locally.
The mission is to check 7-8 new micro routes in the Diff ( F2) to HS ( F4) grade range.
Contact Chris for details.
Report: Job done! Seven new micro routes, suitable for novice leaders got sent. Rah!
- Friday, 11th September - Old Pits Quarry, Hayfield from 1600
- Saturday, 12th September - Standing Stones and Middle Edge Rocks or
Ravenstones. Meet at the Greenwood Bakery, Greenfield at 0945 for pie and cakes.
Report: A brilliant blistering day! Routes ticked and quality pictures snapped.
- Sunday, 13th September - We will be at Laddow Rocks, traditional home of grit stone climbing!
Meet up in the Crowden carpark, Longendale at 0915.
Report: What a contrast! It was cold at Laddow in that brisk Northerly wind, then the sun came out. Rah!
Photos got done and a bonus! 3 new micro-routes/high ball problems discovered and ticked.
- Postphoned --
Tuesday, 15th September - Far Black Clough - afternoon working meet. Meet at the crag. -- Postphoned
August 2009
- From Monday, 31st August - No plans for this week as we are all getting geared up for the
Gower Climbing Festival from 4 - 6th September.
Come on down, it'll be a blast!
Weekend report: Fantastic weekend with awesome climbing, see Lewes Castle
- Saturday, 15th August - Kinder South area,
with The Pagoda, Crowden Towers and Grindsbrook Rocks on offer - in that order.
Meet in the Station cafe, Edale
for home made bread, excellent bacon and lashings of coffee at 0930, setting off
at 1000.
Don't forget sturdy walking boots, poles and bright clothes... And cake!
Free chips in the Nags Head later.
- Sunday, 16th August - Venue change - We will be at Laddow Rocks, possibly moving onto Bareholme on the other side of the valley in the afternoon.
Meet at the
Crowdon Car Park, Longendale for a 0930 start.
Laddow only gets the sun till about 1300 so pictures of teams on Priscilla and Tower Arete would be great.
Beer in the Crown, Glossop at £1.35 a pint followed by the most awesome chips in the world.
- Monday, 17th August - A midday start for a multi-crag day in Marsden and Saddleworth. Meeting place - To be announced.
Weekend Report: "
Hello,
Massive thanks to the teams who came out over the weekend…I’ve only just recovered from the excitement of it all, and am feeling very positive.
Saturday saw 8 of us hiding under an overhang at The Pagoda whilst the rain, clag and mist rolled over us, drenching everything. About an hour of that and we were on the verge of leaving, when good sense took hold. We hung about for a little while longer…just long enough for the sun to come out and dry up all the rain. This had happened to us before and we kind of knew the score: don’t run away until there is no other option.
Three crags, some good pictures, some great bouldering, over 20 routes climbed and the last Kinder crag checked: result!
Sunday saw a late start, and then a day at the much maligned Crowden Great Quarry. Most people had not been there before and, the plan was to keep out of the wind, take some pictures and climb. Lots of routes done and everyone had a really good time. We finished with the amazing salt & pepper chips from the chippy next to the Crown, then drank some of Sam Smith’s finest.
The weekend was the most successful one of recent times. Next weekend I’m off to Wales to check out some huskies, and to paint the outside of a house blue.
More instructions to follow.
The Chew Valley Cragsmen will gather for the first time in September.
Fangs, Martin"
- Friday, 07 August - From lastminuteclimbs.com:
"
Evening,
This business where I only tell you where we're going about three minutes before we get there might be a bit tiresome, but it's producing some serious results.
This Friday there will be a small and select team heading up to Laddow to enjoy the morning sunshine, get those new routes done and take some pictures. It will likely be a shortish day, with coffee and cake laid on for all participants.
The plan is to get to Laddow by 10 at the latest, which means setting off with light loads by 9. In other words, meet at the Crowden Car Park between 0830 and 0845. If you are a bit late, catch us up and join in.
No action planned for the weekend, so enjoy your freedom.
"MartinK
"ps ...and the afternoon's excitement will centre on John Henry Quarry, Tintwistle."
- Sunday, 2nd August - From lastminuteclimbs.com "
If anyone is at a loose end tomorrow, and the weather is half decent...which it is supposed to be,
I will be receiving visitors at Edale Station Caff around 10am.
Coffee, sausage butties and cake are all available.
After that, we shall be rummaging at the top of Grindsbrook.
The aim is to discover the meaning of Grindsbrook Rocks, Grindsbrook Towers, Fox Holes and Far Upper Tor.
As usual, ring me if you need to confirm, or just turn up." MartinK
July 2009
- Saturday, 25th July - Third time lucky? At the risk of repeating myself, tomorrow we will be on Ashop Edge,
Kinder North.
It promises to be the best day of the weekend with sunshine, warmth and a nice breeze.
The usual requirements (colourful clothing, decent butties, home made cakes and a sense of adventure) are all very handy.
Meet at the layby 100 yards downhill (Sheffield side) from the Snake Inn for a 10.00 am departure.
Bring cameras and wire brushes, and we should have a blast. Plenty of new routes for everyone.
If arriving later, phone Martin Kocsis on Zero-795-Zero 88 96 7-Zero for our current location.
Report : "
thanks to everyone there I had a top day out! a great atmosphere at the crag
today, great weather and excellent routes :D " G Hammond on UKClimbing.
- Wednesday, 15th July - A splinter group will be climbing in the Chew area from 1000 onwards.
Contact Chris for details.
The Plan: Meet up at the
Greenwood Bakery on Kinder Lane, in Greenfield for 1000 to stock up on pies and cake.
Move onto Dovestones Edge till about 1600.
Then onto Duck Stones,
which will be in the sun and also has some good bouldering,
to meet up with the evening crowd - about 1700 onwards.
Parking at
Dovestones Reservior Pay n Display.
Report: What a fantastic evening!
That interplay of textures and colours, warm grit and threatening clouds in the evening glow.
We climbed till it got dark.
- Thursday, 16th July - The splinter group, PbP ( Powered bi Pi) will be at
Pule Hill, near Marsden, from 1200 to about 1600.
Report: Powered bi Pi, Pumped by Pule - That was the verdict. It's steep!
And somehow, 2 lttle cup cakes managed to infiltrate the group.
- Saturday, 18th July - Marsden & Saddleworth: A multiple whammy of Rough Knarr
(morning sun) followed by Packhorse Quarry and Nab End (afternoon sun) finishing
off with West Nab boulders (the best undiscovered bouldering in the whole
world, if not the Peak). All venues take less than 5 minutes to get to in case
of rain stopping play. The Church Inn (£1.50 a pint) or Marsden Brewery Tap aren’t
too far away, should rain stop play, and the mighty Running Hill Pits is fairly
accessible should the sun come out. Meet at Greenfield Bakery between 9.30 and
10 for the usual feeding frenzy. Should be an excellent but tiring day.
- Sunday, 19th July - It's Edale: A trip to work out the delights of Far Upper Tor and
Grindsbrook Towers. These are unknown quantities and have not been checked.
Meet at the Station Café (really great sausage butties and coffee) for about
10am. We will return via Secret Buttress. If conditions allow, we will also be
looking for poseurs to pose on Grindsbrook Rocks and Fox Holes. Big walks, big
skies, BIG Sausages.
- Friday, 10th July - A magical mystery mission involving at least 3 venues.
Meet up at the
Greenwood Bakery on Kinder Lane, in Greenfield for 1000 to stock up on pies and cake.
Report: We all stood huddled together in front of the Bakery, nursing pies and cups of tea, bemoaning the weather!
It was dismal... then suddenly, it all changed!
Classics in Den lane got photographed and ticked off. Next stop - Running Hill Pits where even the good got mangled.
And finished off the day, job well done with a pint in The Church.
- Sunday, 12th July - Yet another go for Ashop Edge on
Kinder North
, via Fairbrook Naze. The weather has thwarted all our previous attempts but we will prevail.
Meet up at the layby just after the Snake Inn ( towards Sheffield) at 0930.
If arriving later, phone Martin Kocsis on Zero-795-Zero 88 96 7-Zero for our current location.
Note: The Snake Pass closure is from Monday 13th to Thursday 16th.
Arrrrggggh! Foiled by the weather... Again!
- Friday, 3rd July - Ravenstones all day -
Meet up at the
Greenwood Bakery on Kinder Lane, in Greenfield for 0930.
Mountain bikes ( optional) may be useful for getting to the crag and back down again very quickly.
- Sunday, 5th July - Belated trip to Ashop Edge on
Kinder North
, via Fairbrook Naze. Meet up at the layby just after the Snake Inn ( towards Sheffield) at 0930.
If arriving later, phone Martin Kocsis on Zero-795-Zero 88 96 7-Zero for our current location.
June 2009
- Wednesday, 17th June -
We'll be at Den Lane
and
Standing Stones.
Meet up at the
Greenwood Bakery on Kinder Lane, in Greenfield for 1000.
- Thursday, 18th June - An late afternoon/evening session is planned for Tintwistle Knarr.
It is south facing and has some of the best quarry climbing in the area from VS - E13;-)
Wear brightly coloured clothes as we don't have many action shots for this venue.
Meet at the crag. Note: Limited parking available, so car sharing may be an good idea.
- Friday, 19th June - A full day is in store as follows:
- 0700 - Yup, 0700! Meet up at Ramshaw Rocks
for a morning session in the Roaches.
If arriving later, phone Martin Kocsis on Zero-795-Zero 88 96 7-Zero for our current location.
- 1200 - We move to Brockholes Quarry
in Longendale.
- 1700 - Finally for the evening crowd,
Far Black Clough.
- Saturday, 20th June - Big day out on Kinder North
, via Fairbrook Naze. Meet up at the layby just after the Snake Inn ( towards Sheffield) at 0930.
If arriving later, phone Martin Kocsis on Zero-795-Zero 88 96 7-Zero for our current location.
Latest: A deluge this morning has stopped play:-(
- Sunday, 21st June - Robs Rocks
in the Upper Chew Valley gets the treatment.
This is the Windgather of Saddleworth with lots and lots of easy routes.
And it catches the afternoon sun.
Meet in the Dovestones Reservoir Pay and Display for 1000.
Report: A fantastic day. It started out a bit iffy then finished in glorious sunshine.
We didn't get down till after 2000!!
- Monday, 22nd June - Ravenstones,
one of the best mid-grade venues in the Chew Valley.
Meet up at the
Greenwood Bakery on Kinder Lane, in Greenfield for 0930, for some excellent pies!
Then onto
Binn Green carpark.
- Tuesday, 23rd June - Whimberry Boulders and Dovestones Quarry
- Adventure grit at it's best! We will be out very early to get crag shots of Wilderness first, so ring us for out current location.
Meet up at the
Greenwood Bakery on Kinder Lane, in Greenfield for 1000, for some excellent pies!
Parking at the Dovestones Reservoir Pay and Display.
Report: Scorchio!!! Blistering! Lots of routes got done and some fantastic photos too.
- Postponed Wednesday, 24th June Postponed - We're off to Crowdon,
near Edale. Meet in the Edale Station cafe at 0900.
May 2009
- Saturday, 31st May - The Wide Crack Event!!!
The plan is to meet up at Dovestones Reservoir car park ( pay and display) for 1000.
More details can be found here!
Report: Fab day was had by all. And we did this! Or wished we could.
- Wednesday, 20th May - We will be operating in one of the many Chew Valley crags throughout the day.
Phone Martin Kocsis on Zero-795-Zero 88 96 7-Zero for our current location.
Report: A good day was had at Rough Knarr, until rain stopped play at about 1400.
We retreated to the garden centre near Uppermill and ate some exceedingly good cake! Hurrah!
- Friday, 22nd May - Chris will be at
Pots and Pans Quarry, above Uppermill from 1300 onwards doing some route cleaning and a few other little chores.
- Postponed - Saturday, 16th May -
We will be on Ashop's Edge, Kinder North.
Park a few hundred yards down the road from the Snake Inn, on the
right (going towards Sheffield), and make tracks up to Fairbrook Naze. We will
be setting off from the car park at 0930. The walk is 45-50 minutes and pretty
straightforward.
Aim: Continue script checking and filling in unclimbed lines ( loads to go at) and of course, action shots.
- Back on track - Sunday, 17th May -
Laddow Rocks, historical home of climbing in the Peak, well steeped in history and tradition.
Meet in the
Crowdon car park at 0930 or at the crag if you fancy a later start.
Aim: To take crag and action shots. Some gardening will be done ( tools provided).
Contact details
Call Martin Kocsis on Zero-795-Zero 88 96 7-Zero for the latest information,
or email us if you want to be added to the mailing list, volunteer some help, etc.
Our email addresses are:
Additional information
Chew Valley Cragsmen
- The Chew Valley Cragsmen website with
local news, meets and events.
They also have a Facebook group - The Chew Valley Cragsmen.
Chris' Home Page
- Chris Tan's Home Page with a few
off-the-beaten-path basic guides.
Over the Moors, photo outtakes- A collection of photographs that didn't make the guide.
Climbing in the Chew Valley
- One of the best online guides to the Chew Valley by Steve Delderfield.
Moorland Gritstone blog
- Martin Kocsis' Moorland Grit blog with news and views.
Tuesday Nighters Climbing
- on FaceBook is an anarchic informal group that climb round the Peak on Tuesdays.
Parking penalties in Dovestones Reservior and Binn Green
Posted 19 July 2010
The following post is incorrect.. Please pay at both car parks.
There has been a bit of a kerfuffle regarding the new barriers & parking arrangements in the Chew Valley.
This morning, some colleagues investigated the new car parking arrangements at the Chew car parks, and this is what they discovered.
The parking (in both) used to be run by Oldham B.C. The main car park has always been pay and display. Up to now, any parking fines ("Penalty Charge Notices") issued by Oldham have been legally enforceable.
Now that the car park is run by Parking Plus, based in London, any parking fines you get are "Parking Charge Notices". These are not legally enforceable*, and you are not obliged to pay them. The company is similar to Parking Eye, which issues tickets if you overstay in Aldi and McDonalds. I have had several of said tickets, and the simplest response is to bin them.
If you get a ticket at Dovestones, do not pay as you are not legally required to do so. Bin the letter (or keep it for amusement) and get on with your life.
If you doubt me, check out the following consumer champion forums.
The letters you get will look official, and will use intimidating language, but they are toothless. They rely on fear to get your money from you. I intend to get a ticket in the next week or so, and I will ignore it until they go away (which they will), and I will keep you informed!
Bob
PS I know it's only £1.30 a day, so it's not going to break the bank. This is info just in case you forget to buy a ticket and you get a PCN.
*i.e. total boollshite
Clarification on Parking penalties in Dovestones Reservior and Binn Green
Posted 09 August 2010
After speaking to a Car Parking Officer at Dovestones car park yesterday,
we found out that Oldham Council are still issuing the tickets for that car park, so please pay the £1.30 a day as these "Penalty Charge Notices" are enforceable.
Our previous post on the subject is incorrect.
Crag maps & location, Pubs & Food, Camping, etc.
- Alderman Rocks
- Ashop's Edge, Kinder North
-
Ashton u Lyne's Farmers Market - Last Sunday of every month, stock up on the best crag munchies in the universe. Allow 1-2 hours distraction factor!
- Back Tor
- Bareholme Crags
- Barista in Glossop - Breakfasts that a climber would be proud to eat!
- Beeston Quarry
-
Binn Green Car Park - where you can sometimes find a mobile barista. See Note on Parking penalties
- Blackshaw Quarry
- Broadbottom Quarry
- Brockholes Quarry
- Buxworth Railway Crag
- Charnel Stones
-
the Church Inn, Uppermill - Locally brewed real ale at £1.50 a pint!!!! They do draught cider tooooooo!
- Cown Edge Rocks
- Cracken Edge Quarries
- Crag XxX - Top Secret venue with lots of ongoing projects!
-
the Cross Keys Inn, Uppermill - Unusual locally brewed Lees beer and brilliant food.
- Crowdon Camping and Caravanning Club Site, Longendale
- Crowdon Great Quarry aka Mordor!
- Crowdon Towers
-
Crowdon Car Park, Longendale
-
the Crown Inn, Glossop - Samuel Smiths ale!
- Deer Knowl
- Den Lane
- Dovestones Edge
- Dovestones Quarry - Adventure Grit at its best!
-
Dovestones Reservior Car Park - Pay n Display. See Note on Parking penalties
- Duckstones
- Edale Campsites -
Fieldhead Campsite and
Cooper's Farm Campsite
- Far Black Clough
-
Golden House Chippy - the only Chinese Chippy in Greenfield, Greenbridge Lane - Great chips and MONSTER portions!
- the Greenfield Real Ale Brewery - Real ale delivered to your doorstep for just over a £ a pint!
-
Greenwood Bakery, Greenfield - Pie n Cakes!
- Grinah and Barrow Stones
- Grinsbrook Rocks
-
the Grouse, Glossop - Lancaster Bomber, Beer brewed for a Mission! Nice chips too.
- Hobson Moor Quarry
- Holmfirth Cliff
- John Henry Quarry
- Kinder Bank Quarry
- Kinder Downfall Area
- Kinder South Area
- Laddow Rocks
- Mam Tor
- Millstone Buttress
-
Moorland Caravan Park, Denshaw - Mainly for caravans but they will take limited tent pitches by prior arrangement.
Address and Contact - Moorland Caravan Park, Denshaw, Oldham, Lancashire, OL3 5UN.
Tel: 01457 874348, Fax: 01457 874 865
- a Month of Sundaes, Marsden - Best ice cream in the universe!
- Mountain Feet, Marsden - Formerly Paul Braithwaithe's is still the best gear shop in the area.
- Nab End
- Nether Tor
-
New Bank Garden Centre, Uppermill - Fantastic selection of home made cakes! The current top contenders are:- Lemon Cheese cake vs Coffee and Walnut!
- New Mills Torrs
- the Nook, Holmfirth
- Old Pits Quarry
- Pack Horse Quarry
- Pots and Pans Quarry
- Pule Hill
- the Railway Inn, Greenfield - Good selection of liquid refreshments and brilliant live music!
- Rake's Rocks
- Ravenstones
- Robinsons Rocks
- Rollick Stones
- Rough Knarr Quarry
- Running Hill Pits
- Shaw Quarry
- Shining Clough
- Shooters Nab
- Slade Rocks
-
Standedge Caravan And Camping Site, Marsden - Just beside the mighty Pule Hill.
Beware! The karaoke night is a once in a lifetime experience - truly unforgettable! " that's what you are... "
- Standedge Quarry
- Standing Stones
-
the Station Cafe, Edale - Home made bread, excellent bacon and lashings of fresh coffee!
- Tegg's Nose
- Tintwistle Knarr
- Torside Clough
- Upper Tor
- Upperwood Quarry
- Well-i-Hole Farm, Greenfield - Only campsite in the Chew Valley.
It's well situated and charges £3.00 per person per night - No hidden extras like tent fees, parking charges, etc.
Easy access to local buses and trains and The Railway Inn has a brilliant selection of beer with good live music.
- West Nab
- Whimberry Rocks
- Wildboar Clough
- Wilderness Rocks
- Worlow Quarry
- Wormstones
- Yellowslacks
Note: This is not a comprehensive list of all the crags in the Moorland Grit project.
ps If there are any pubs, chippys, gear shops, etc. worthy of mention,
email chris and he'll add them to this list.
Last updated: 1015, 15th May 2012